When mounting frame on your art work, be sure that all edges of the glass are secured into the full depth of the zinc frame. Otherwise, you will experience dissatisfaction after you solder the pieces together. As mentioned, T-pins are suggested to be sure and hold the frame tightly anchored to edge of the glass and deep into the channel of the zinc frame.
When soldering the corners or the seam lines connecting the frame, you will see a slight rise to the solder. It is common to see the actual solder at these points, but after patina is applied, these blend together and look fine. Be careful as to not build up too much solder at these locations or this may be highly visible when finished.
After soldering the first side and then turning the art work over to solder the second side, examine the frame to see that it is in the correct position before soldering. Sometimes it can get "adjusted" when you turn the piece over.
I highly suggest the using hanging rings that have been twisted together as these are much stronger and tend not to pull apart after the art work has been hanging for some time. I have experienced single wire hooks actually failing and a piece or two has dropped and broken. Save yourself grief (take it from me) and only use the twisted, therefore stronger hanging rings.
If using a wood frame, a better look is always produced by mitering the corners of the wood. Simple 45 degree cuts on the end of all frame members easily accomplish this. When mechanically attaching these pieces of frame, I strongly suggest the use of a good carpenter’s glue and one screw for long term hanging safety. Additionally, wood frames come in all sizes, including width, thickness and specie of wood. Decide how you want to finish them, paint or stain. This will enable you to use the right wood for the right job and not end up painting oak wood. Oak is too expensive and beautiful to hide under paint in my opinion. Mechanical hanging fasteners that include screws into the wood should be used.
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