Were finally on to the part about actually washing your car. Make sure that you are using a clean wash mitt or sponge, and that your bucket is free of dirt and contaminates. Work in the shade and make sure the surface is cool. Make sure that you are using a good carwash, and don't use dishwashing detergents. The dishwashing detergent damages the finish, stripping it of vital oils causing it to dry out.

Presoak the car first making sure you get rid of any of the big dirt. Also remove any bug and tar items time using tar & bug remover with a sponge. Move on to the rims, since rims collect brake dust and road debris. Use a wheel cleaner that is made for your type of rims such as being clear coated or not. Don't overlook the under side of the vehicle, and the gas cap lid as well. Now start at the top of your vehicle and move your way down. Make sure that you get all areas, and rinse often. To do a final rinse, remove the spray head from the hose and flood the finish. The water will tend to run off in sheets, minimizing spotting. When drying the vehicle off, you can use a chamois to get the bulk of the water, but finish it off with soft towels.
When you're done washing and the car is mostly dry, apply your rubber dressings to the tires, bumpers and any plastic parts you want to shine. This gives the car to finish drying and you can then look for missed areas or water runs.

Most people stop here and say they are done, if they even get to this point. They over look one of the most important steps in detailing and preserving a vehicle, and that is waxing. Now the market is full of different types of waxing products, but how many of them actually work? Most of the average cheap waxes contain a very small portion of wax in them, and use petroleum instead. Products that are like this do very little in preserving and waxing the paint, if anything they just waste your time and money. Also be aware of the spray on wax with water. These waxes might give some protection for a day or two, but nothing like the protection of a carnauba wax.
Before you wax you need to get rid of any oxidation you may have. Typically, you will not have to do this every time. Oxidation depends on how much you wax, when you wax, how much sun the car is exposed to, and other weather conditions. Oxidation can usually be removed with a clear coat compound. For standard finishes you can step up to polishing compound, which is mild but still too harsh for clear coats. If you do use these products, you must seal the paint after.

If you decided to use a compound for oxidation, then you must seal the paint. You can buy a glaze/sealer to do this. Most sealers or glazers you apply by wiping on. Then use soft towels to remove it after it has hazed over.
Now you are ready to wax. Make sure you are using a good wax, preferably one with high amounts of carnauba wax in it. Again, start at the top of your vehicle and do small sections as you work your way down. Don't let it sit more than 5-8 minutes before removing, and two thin coats of this is much better than one thick coat. Also apply it with a side to side motion instead of circular to prevent swirls. Be sure to include door jambs, and the areas beneath door hinges and behind bumpers. Minor blemishes may be neutralized by wrapping a cotton cloth around your index finger and burnishing the polish into the finish.

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