The valley opens below. Cliffs and high valleys stand in the midst of a sky pregnant with moisture. The rains are about to come. We stop at the Kerio Tingwa Ecotourism camping site for a stretch and to admire the beautiful landscape. We are on our way to Eldoret via the Eldama Ravine road and then to Chepkiit waterfall.
A map on the sign board points to the interesting features in the view. We can see Tongwoto caves, Tingwa hills at 2,700 meters and somewhere below are the Kabilet waterfalls and Kerio River. At the next viewpoint, we can see the white rug on the terrain of the Fluorspar mines.
It’s nearly midnight and we are camping just off the turning from Biribiriet near Eldoret on the Eldoret-Kapsabet road .The night air is cold but stunningly revitalizing. This is the ultimate forest camping experience. The gurgle of the stream running at the bottom of the field, is inviting. The moon, hidden in the clouds, send a little light in the terrestrial grounds but our eyes have become accustomed to the darkness and we are no longer daunted by it. Instead, warmed by the camping fire, we are suddenly animated when somebody suggests a midnight walk with Beryl to the rivers edge in search of frogs! This may be my proverbial chance to kiss the frog and end up with prince charming, so I join in.
The trouble with frogs is that you get to see them more at night and so much of Beryl’s field work is stalking the wilds in the dark armed with torch and plastic bags to catch the jumping jacks.
We tread the grass softly so as not to frighten the amphibians. Ringed by the glow of the torch light, a tiny reed frog tenderly perches on a thin grass. It’s quite a piece of art, this delicate scene.’ That’s a reed frog,” Beryl says as our torches beam on many more in the shallow edges of Kipkeren River which thunders over the nearby Chepkiit waterfalls and onwards to Kingwal swamp. Many of the tiny water frogs are breeding and their throat sacs are ballooned enormously to call out female mates. It’s quite a busy little scene by the banks of the river. In contrast, the bigger grass frogs look quite monstrous and scary.
“Frogs are a good indicator of a clean environment “says Beryl.” Any disturbance of the water quality effects their populations. “There is no long term national data on the amphibians to compare the state of the environment or the diversity of frogs. Beryl is one of the few young Kenyan’s studying frogs.
It’s amazing. In the light of the following morning, where the scene was busy the night before, there is not a single frog to be seen. I take a leisurely stroll to a secluded water pool surrounded by massive rocks for a morning bath. The water is cool, the early morning clean and pure and the sky is lit with diverse colurs. The Ross’Turaco with its bright scarlet under wing has everybody taken ‘under its wing ‘it’s a bird of the old forests and quite rare to many birders.
This place is a find for camping nature lover groups. We are camping in this beautiful place surrounded by trees and open glades sandwiched between a picturesque Nandi homestead and the river overlooking a stone buff, all thanks to Mary, who has been researching in the vicinity for six years. “Everybody keeps running to coast for their holidays. They should come here for a once in a life time camping experience,” she says vehemently. “You won’t believe the number of stunning places like these.”
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