I had wanted to visit Cuba for a long time. I knew a little about Fidel Castro, but no idea really about what life might be like in a Communist State. Being an 80's child I also certainly had no experience of the 50's decade other than the movies. One of the most nostalgic smells of my childhood growing up is the smell of cigars. This was one of my fathers most enjoyed habits and that coupled with his love of Jazz and the stories he told me about the 'good old times' I was truly excited about stepping back in time to experience this for myself.

I was not disappointed. You cannot escape the clichés of the classic cars, cigars and mojitos, as this is what makes Cuba so attractive, and I was totally star struck by it all including the famous Nacional Hotel with its collages of the rich and famous who had stayed there. Errol Flynn, Nat King Cole, Rita Haywood and Fred Astaire. I was enchanted by the private smoking rooms where the men retire and choose from a staggering array of cigars of the highest quality. Smoking rooms where you can buy a humidor where your cigars will be kept, unquestioned until the day you return in 6 months or 10 years.

Step out of Havana and the charm and hospitality of the city continues into the countryside.

In Vinales Valley the traffic jams are the ox & carts carrying the tobacco leaves dried in the original thatched roof stores that dot the countryside. Farmers labour in the fields ploughing by hand with their trusted ox. Impressive Mogotes rise out of the valley and create beautiful shadows at dusk and offer some of the most exhilarating climbing and caving in Latin America.

The often-overlooked city of Cienfuegos is home to some exquisite architecture including the stunning Palacio de Valle, once a private home. Its relaxed main square where the locals chat away the day is home to the old theatre which still has the original furniture from the 1800's and where one can enjoy excellent performances of Opera and Ballet.

The UNESCO city of Trinidad with its brightly coloured buildings, cobbled streets and Casa de la Trova's playing live music well into the night is simply great fun. And just outside the town are the dramatic Sierra Escambray and Topes de Collantes National park that offers some excellent hiking and bird watching.

Cuba is also home of course, to some stunning Caribbean beaches, and now the all inclusive package holiday is not the only way to enjoy them. The new Royal Hideaway Ensenachos (Occidental Resorts) on Cayo Ensenachos on the North Coast is Cuba's answer to sophisticated 5* beach stay without having to worry about the bill at the end. Pamper yourself in their spa or relax on the white sands or take advantage of the water sports, all at your fingertips. Don't want 5*? Then just across the water Cayo Las Brujas offers charming bungalows on a bed & breakfast basis.

Cuba is not straight forward nor is it a gourmet country, quite the opposite and patience is key but I can tell you where to get a good meal and a fine glass of wine, where you can spend your evening in smoky bars listening to traditional music and how to really meet the truly delightful people of this country.

No one knows quite how it will change when the inevitable end of Fidel Castro's regime arrives, but one thing is for sure, this is a country that is simply a must see whatever your age or interests.