If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Rheingau region of central Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Riesling.

The Rheingau region is the most central wine-growing region in Germany. Its terrain is very special; here the magnificent Rhine River runs mostly east-west with excellent exposure to the summer sun. The heavily wooded hillsides block cold air. This area is particularly known for Riesling which represents more than 80% of its total wine production and secondarily for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) which accounts for slightly under 10% of the area's total wine production. The Rheingau has been producing great Rieslings since the Middle Ages, but needless to say, not all their Rieslings are great, far from it.

Two important terms associated with German wine come from the Rheingau region. The British term Hock referring to white Rhein wines originally meant Hochheim, a small city in the eastern Rheingau. Hock wines were once amber-colored; traditional Hock wine would probably not be popular today. Many countries use the term Johannisberg Riesling to refer to true Riesling. Guess where the village of Johannisberg is located.

The Rheingau region also claims credit for discovering noble rot, the beneficial Botrytis cinerea fungus that is responsible for many of the world's greatest dessert wines including French Sauternes. According to local tradition, in 1775 the Abbey of Fulda's messenger came late with the papers authorizing the wine harvest. By the time he arrived the grapes were rotten and given to the peasants, who ended up having the last laugh as the Late Harvest wine far exceeded the traditional product. Before the end of the 18th Century the neighborhood castle Schloss Johannisberg was making Spätlese and Auslese wines; two respected German wine classifications that continue to exist today.

The Rheingau is eighth in vineyard area among Germany's thirteen wine regions, comprising about 3% of German vineyards. It is also eighth in the volume of wine produced. Less than 20% of its wine production is QbA wine, the remainder is the higher quality QmP wine.

In 1983 local producers of dry Rieslings launched the Association of Charta estates to provide consumers with high-grade wines. Over the years the rules to be accepted as a Charta wine got stiffer and stiffer. This sounds like a good idea to me. Charta wines usually come in a tall brown bottle with a Romanesque double-arch on a white background. I haven't been able to locate a Charta wine in my local wine stores, but if I manage to do so, I'll be writing a review. The main city in the Rheingau region is Wiesbaden whose population is about 270,000 including an important American military presence. Tourist attractions include the Schlossplatz (Palace Square) in the center of the city and the Neo-Gothic Marktkirche (Market Church). The Wiesbaden thermal springs and spa date back to Roman times. It is said that one hundred years ago Wiesbaden had more millionaires than any other German city. Perhaps this is why Wiesbaden is a center for German antiques.

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