The great majority of visitors to Portugal think no further than the Algarve. While the region certainly has its attraction, the - in places - excessive amount of tourist development, crowded beaches and inevitable international-style tourist attractions are by no means to everyone's taste.

For a more relaxed and civilised way to experience, appreciate and enjoy the true taste of Portugal we recommend a touring holiday in the far less crowded northern region, taking in a number of the country's delightful Pousadas along the way. This region offers virtually everything the visitor could want: gorgeous scenery, spectacular views, historic towns, uncrowded beaches, country markets, the incomparable Douro Valley, excellent food and wines and - by no means least - several outstanding Pousadas.

The easiest way to reach this region is to fly to the city of Porto and pick up a car at the airport. Porto itself, near the mouth of the Douro river, is well worth a serious visit with perhaps a night or two at the historic Pestana Porto Hotel - a World Heritage site right on the riverside. Boats moored outside the hotel offer trips to the point where the river meets the Atlantic, or inland into the interior of the Douro Valley.

If there is not enough time available to visit the city, drive some 120 km north from the airport for an overnight stay at the charming Pousada 'D. Diniz' (29 rooms) at VILA NOVA DE CERVEIRA on the edge of the river Minho, forming the frontier with Spain. What was once a medieval hamlet has been totally renovated and transformed into the Pousada: the old houses are now rooms and suites, the original 'city hall' has been converted into lounges and the bar, and the modern restaurant offers a magnificent panoramic view across the river to Spain. In short, a wonderful place from which to start a tour of the region.

For a short tour of, say, four nights overall, we would recommend the second overnight stay at the Pousada 'Sta Maria do Bouro' (32 rooms) in AMARES, a small country town some 70 km from Vila Nova de Cerveira, on the edge of the Peneda/Geres National Park with some of the finest scenery in the whole of Portugal. The Pousada here is exceptionally beautiful - a perfectly restored former 12thC Cistercian monastery and a positive haven of peace and tranquility with an atmosphere of calm all of its own.

For the third overnight we suggest the historic city of GUIMARAES, less than 40 km from Amares and the city known as the birthplace of the Portuguese nation. At Guimaraes there is a choice of two Pousadas:

• Pousada 'Santa Marinha' (51 rooms), a restored 12thC convent set on a hill overlooking the city and surrounding countryside, with beautiful courtyards and cloisters and extensive gardens.

• Pousada 'Nossa Senhora da Oliveira', located in the medieval historical centre of the city and very different in character from Santa Marinha - in fact almost Dickensian in style, with just 16 rooms.

No exploration of this region of Portugal is complete without a visit to the Douro Valley and here, for the fourth and final night, again there is a choice of two Pousadas. 120 km from Guimaraes is the small rural town of ALIJO, some 15 km to the north of the Douro and surrounded by the vineyards for which the area is so famous. The Pousada 'Barao de Forrester' (21 rooms) is in the style of a stately country house, with atmosphere to match and an exceptionally high standard of cuisine. About 50 km from Alijo and right in the heart of the valley is the superb Pousada 'Solar da Rede' (29 rooms) near the village of MESAO FRIO. Set high above the river and with quite outstanding views of both sides of the valley, this Pousada is an imposing 200-year old mansion with its own vineyards - a breathtakingly beautiful location. Both of these Pousadas can arrange visits to neighbouring 'quintas', as well as boat trips along the Douro river, and from both of them the drive back to Porto is less than two hours.

Although this itinerary will give the visitor a pretty spectacular introduction to this region of Portugal, there is so much to see and experience in and around the locations mentioned that a longer visit is highly recommended. Two or even three nights at some of these Pousadas would enhance the trip considerably, allowing time for further exploration at a more leisurely pace. One could also take in a night or two at the very comfortable

Pousada 'Sta Luzia', high on a hill top above the fashionable seaside resort of VIANA DO CASTELO between Porto and Vila Nova de Cerveira.

However long or short the time available, we are certain that by following this itinerary the visitor will have ample opportunity to experience the very best that the friendly and fascinating country of Portugal has to offer.